Browsing by Subject "ompelijat"

Thesis narrates a dressmaker's life in a small village called Itäkylä, located in Lappajärvi municipality in the late 1940s and in the early 1950s. This study is placed in the history of craft and craft culture. It is a narrative study; the literature and empiric data discusses with each other through the entire study. The aim was to understand the studied phenomenon, in this case the dressmaker's work and to describe and interpret it in the light of her time. How much the environment in which she grew up affected the dressmaker's career choice? What was Itäkylä's craft culture like during the Second World War and after it? What kind of craft traditions the dressmaker's childhood home offered and above all, what it was like to be a dressmaker in the 1940s and 1950s in a small rural village community? The perspective of this study is in micro-history and craft culture that surrounded the dressmaker. The study is a narrative and the empiric data consists of interviews with 83 years old informant. The aim was to collect her stories, and the transcribed data consists of sixty pages. The interview data was processed in a narrative way; a new story, the dressmaker's biography was created on the basis of it. The analysis is a data-oriented narrative content analysis. The data were divided in eight different themes, which reflected the study's chronology. During the dressmaker's childhood and youth, crafts were present in everyday life and they were associated with positive memories and encouragement. In the stories she told, the post-war countryside is coloured as a world that was dominated by women. Itäkylä was known for its linen fields. Crafts were villagers' daily life and an important economic activity. The dressmaker's work in the late 40s and early 50s seems to have been a busy but rewarding occupation, where the most stress was caused by the shortage of fabrics and materials. Due to the period of shortage, the dressmaker's ingenuity was under severe strain. She has, however, experienced herself as a self-confident seamstress. Patterns were not used in making clothes, which was typical in rural areas. The informant's home environment and surrounding craft culture seem to have been a good seedbed on her way to become a dressmaker.

Objectives. The study on costume has mainly focused on the work and the artistic process of the costume designer. Realizing the design in collaboration with the costume designer and the costume maker has remained mostly unstudied. The aim of the study was to investigate the various forms of collaboration between the costume designer and the costume maker during the costume making process. The study also aimed to understand the factors that influence different forms of collaboration and to examine how they enable and promote productive collaboration. Methods. The data for the study was collected by interviewing four costume designers and four costume makers between May and August 2017. The interviews were carried out as semi-structured interviews, which best correspond to focused interview. Interviewees were chosen for their education and long work experience in the profession. The transcribed interviews were coded in atlas.ti with theory- and material-oriented approach. Qualitative analysis of the coded data was executed with thematic categorizing. Results and conclusions. The study shows a wide range of variation in the collaborative process both in terms of quantity and quality. Many factors influence the collaboration. These include professional expertise, attitudes towards work and the collaborators, the settled and personally preferred work methods, as well as the level of familiarity between the collaborators, communication between them and mutual respect. The production process itself, schedules and resources, management, division of work and atmosphere in the wardrobe also have an effect on the collaboration. Preconditions for productive collaboration consist of several factors, but self-respect and the appreciation for one’s collaborator seem to be the most significant, alongside positive, flexible and professional attitude.