Browsing by Subject "textiles"

Forests play a central role in climate change mitigation actions, and substitution, that is the use of wood products in place of fossil intensive materials, has been recognized as a potential way to avoid emissions. While there are studies estimating the substitution impact of products, i.e., the avoided emissions, there is a lack of studies integrating market perspectives into substitution estimation. To contribute to this research gap, this study explores the market assumptions of substitution through the theoretical lenses of value chains and microeconomic theory on demand. The objectives are to recognize powerful decision-makers in the value chains, to establish a better understanding for the current state of substitution in the markets, and to explore the determinants of demand of the wood-based products. To limit the scope of this study, the use of pulp-based products was examined in the cases of packaging and textile sectors. Semi-structured interviews with 14 experts were arranged to discuss their views on substitution and demand of the pulp-based products in the chosen sectors. Additionally, a Likert scale was filled at the end of each interview to supplement the interview answers and enable elasticity and cross-price elasticity analyses to examine substitution. The sample of respondents was chosen through the use of snowball sampling and a matrix to recognize potential interviewees. First, the findings of this study suggest that in both sectors, the decision-making power on materials is held by the operators at the end of the value chain whereas the forest sector is located at the beginning of the chain. Second, in both sectors, there is willingness to find more sustainable material solutions, but the tools for this are lacking. In the case of packaging sector, the barrier capacities of plastic are unattainable with fiber-based materials, meaning that reducing plastic use does not always imply switching the feedstock itself. In the textile sector, the production of wood-based textile fibers is not yet scaled enough for it to compete with similar materials. However, the analysis of elasticities indicates that some substitution can be expected in both sectors. Third, a number of important determinants of demand were identified, yet no single factor could be identified as the most important one. This study concluded that there is room to improve the market assumptions for substitution impact estimation. In packages, the market preferences of fiber-based packaging in some uses give a rise for interpretational issues, while plastic reduction goals do not always imply switching to wood feedstock. In textiles, the new man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCFs) are expected to mostly substitute for viscose and fill the cellulosic gap from stagnating production of cotton instead of substituting for synthetic fibers. To conclude, it is central to integrate market data and concepts better into future substitution impact analyses to facilitate more realistic estimates.

The environmental detriments caused by textiles are multitude and large in scale. Substantial energy use and greenhouse gas emissions occur in the use phase of the garment. Using the lens of Consumption Work, this thesis maps the circular practices of active citizens related to textiles, i.e. clothes and home textiles, as well as the skills and other resources needed for the execution of the practices. The role of these practices in Circular Economy is considered through the 3R framework. Based on semi-structured interviews with 23 active citizens in Finland, a total of 29 circular practices related to clothes and home textiles were detected. The three most common practices among the interviewees were buying second-hand, repairing, and donating. In addition, this thesis contributes to identifying the invisible practices of planning/keeping books of purchases, recognizing materials, and others that are rarely mentioned in connection with Circular Economy. Textile-related circular practices were found to require different skills, such as sewing, and information searching, and other resources including time, knowledge, and equipment. For being able to have and use textiles, people are required to perform Consumption Work consisting of these textile-related practices of which some are mandatory, and some (more) voluntary. Citizens are increasingly expected to do Consumption Work with economic value in the future. This could be enabled e.g. through appearance of versatile second-hand shops and online platforms, and inspirational actions of others. In addition, structural changes at the state, municipal, and textile industry levels but also at the individual and societal levels are required. Further research is needed e.g. on what motivates people to take part in Circular Economy by conducting circular practices on individual and household levels, and how Consumption Work is divided between family members and genders.