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Browsing by Subject "trend"

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  • Vaajoki, Vicky (2016)
    Change is often viewed as the essence of fashion, but many who operate in the field have observed that certain features and events recur either in a linear, cyclical, swinging or fragmented matter. The purpose of my thesis is to forecast the next 1950s revival by developing and testing a new tool for forecasting. To achieve my goal I examined, if the revivals show common always recurring features and what the similarities and differences are like. I studied the two most recent recurrences in the years 1996 and 2012 by focusing on two retrotrends, apparel and Zeitgeist. The perspective of my thesis was a qualitative and hermeneutic future study. I examined the apparel features with photographs of Chanel's and Dior's collections. For the interpretation of the Zeitgeist factors I used Mitä, missä, milloin -books and collected the research material from the section on culture, news and international politics. For the analysis I employed the hermeneutic circle and two types of qualitative content analysis. On the first round I expanded my pre-understanding and defined the factors with which I grouped, measured and interpreted the material in the content analyses. On rounds two, three and four I analyzed the photographs by applying content analysis of visual images, and examined the text with inductive content analysis. On the fifth and final round I formed the base for my forecast by comparing my expanded understanding and the results of the previous rounds with one another. According to the results the most common characteristic features of the dresses and jackets, in Chanel's and Dior's collections from the years 1996 and 2012, resembled the features of the 1950s. The greatest differences where in the lengths of the sleeves and skirts. All of the Zeitgeist factors recurred in each revival, except for the "racial riots", youth culture and the buy now pay later -mentality. Based on my findings I predict that the common characteristic features of the 1950s apparel and Zeitgeist will recur in the next revival.
  • Vaajoki, Vicky (2016)
    Change is often viewed as the essence of fashion, but many who operate in the field have observed that certain features and events recur either in a linear, cyclical, swinging or fragmented matter. The purpose of my thesis is to forecast the next 1950s revival by developing and testing a new tool for forecasting. To achieve my goal I examined, if the revivals show common always recurring features and what the similarities and differences are like. I studied the two most recent recurrences in the years 1996 and 2012 by focusing on two retrotrends, apparel and Zeitgeist. The perspective of my thesis was a qualitative and hermeneutic future study. I examined the apparel features with photographs of Chanel’s and Dior’s collections. For the interpretation of the Zeitgeist factors I used Mitä, missä, milloin -books and collected the research material from the section on culture, news and international politics. For the analysis I employed the hermeneutic circle and two types of qualitative content analysis. On the first round I expanded my pre-understanding and defined the factors with which I grouped, measured and interpreted the material in the content analyses. On rounds two, three and four I analyzed the photographs by applying content analysis of visual images, and examined the text with inductive content analysis. On the fifth and final round I formed the base for my forecast by comparing my expanded understanding and the results of the previous rounds with one another. According to the results the most common characteristic features of the dresses and jackets, in Chanel’s and Dior’s collections from the years 1996 and 2012, resembled the features of the 1950s. The greatest differences where in the lengths of the sleeves and skirts. All of the Zeitgeist factors recurred in each revival, except for the “racial riots”, youth culture and the buy now pay later -mentality. Based on my findings I predict that the common characteristic features of the 1950s apparel and Zeitgeist will recur in the next revival.
  • Suur-Uski, Johanna; Pekkala, Johanna; Blomgren, Jenni; Pietiläinen, Olli; Rahkonen, Ossi; Mänty, Minna (2018)
    Background: Breast cancer is the most common cancer among women in Western countries, invariably worsening ability to work. High occupational class is associated with higher breast cancer incidence but better survival, however, little is known about occupational class differences in breast cancer related sickness absence over time. Therefore, we aimed to examine occupational class differences in the incidence and duration of long-term sickness absence due to breast cancer over time. Methods: A nationally representative 70-per-cent random sample of Finnish women aged 35–64 in 2004–2012 (annual n=499,778–519,318) was linked to register data on over 10-days long medically certified sickness absence due to breast cancer (ICD-10 code C50) in 2005–2013. This study focused on employed women, including upper non-manual employees (n=111,127–128,905), lower non-manual employees (n=270,426–287,016) and manual workers (n=98,067–118,731). The class differences were analysed by calculating age-adjusted cumulative incidence and duration of absence due to breast cancer annually over the period 2005–2013. Results: Throughout the study period, the annual cumulative incidence was highest among upper non-manuals (314–384 per 100,000 persons) and lowest among manual workers (208–268 per 100,000 persons). In contrast, the annual duration of absence was inversely associated with occupational class, with manual workers having the longest (150–173 days) and upper non-manuals the shortest (114–140 days) duration of absence throughout. Occupational class differences in sickness absence due to breast cancer remained broadly stable over time. Conclusions: Employees in lower occupational classes had lower cumulative incidence but longer duration of sickness absence due to breast cancer compared to those in higher occupational classes. Attention should be paid to promotion of work capacity among employees with breast cancer in lower occupational classes.
  • Pussinen, Kirsi (2007)
    The aim of this work was to study, whether international fashion trends show in knit designs in Finnish craft magazines and how trends are modified. Women's knitted clothes and accessories in autumn winter season 2005 2006 were analyzed. Future research, trends, fashion, designing and knitting provides theoretical basis for this study. The trend material of this study came from Carlin Women's knitwear winter 2005 2006, which is fashion forecast for Women's knitwear. In addition to the trend book, I selected two international fashion magazines to reinforce this study. Fashion magazines were L'Officiel, 1000 models, Milan - New York - winter 05/06, No 52, April 2005 and Collezioni Donna, Prêt-à-porter autumn-winter 2005 2006, No 107. Finnish craft magazines in this study were MODA's issues 4/2005, 5/2005, 6/2005 and Novita's issues autumn 2005, winter 2005 and Suuri Käsityölehti's issues 8/2005, 9/2005, 10/2005. For the base of the analyze I took themes from the trend book. From fashion magazines I searched knitwear designs and these designs were sorted out by themes of trend book. To this trend and fashion material I compared knit designs from craft magazines. I analyzed how fashion trends show in knit designs and how they are modified. I also studied what features of trends were shown and which did not appear in knit designs of the craft magazines. For analyzing trend pictures and knit designs in craft magazines I applied qualitative content analysis and image analysis. According to the results of this research, effects of trend can be recognized in knit designs of craft magazines, although the fashion trends have been applied very discreetly. Knit designs were very similar regardless of magazine. The craft magazine data included approximately as many designs from Novita and MODA. In Suuri Käsityölehti provided only fifth of the designs data. There were also designs in MODA and Suuri Käsityölehti, which were made of Novita's yarns. This research material includes yarns of 15 different yarn manufacturers. Although half of all knit designs were knitted from Novita's yarn. There were 10 different yarns from Novita. Nevertheless Novita's yarn called Aino was the most popular. Finnish craft magazines have not respond to popularity of knitting. Magazines do not provide any novelty designs for knitters. Knit designs in Finnish craft magazines are usually practical basic designs without any innovativeness.