Browsing by discipline "Craft Science"

Kulttuurinen omiminen on ilmiö, joka on puhuttanut ihmisiä maailman laajuisesti. Suomessa kulttuuriseen omimiseen liittyvä keskustelu on keskittynyt erityisesti saamelaisten, suomen ainoan alkuperäiskansan, kansanpuvun käyttöön liittyviin ilmiöihin. Keskustelua on käyty siitä, saavatko pukuun pukeutua muutkin kuin saamelaiset ja onko saamenpuvun kaltaisten asujen käyttö hyväksyttävää. Tässä tutkielmassa on tarkoituksena selvittää, mistä keskustelu kulttuurisesta omimisesta johtuu eli millaisia asioita saamenpukuun liittyvän kulttuurista omimista käsittelevän keskustelun taustalla on. Näitä asioita selvitetään kahdella tavalla. Ensiksi tarkastellaan, miten muut kuin saamelaiset ovat saamenpukua tai sen kaltaisia pukuja käyttäneet. Seuraavaksi keskitytään selvittämään millaisia merkityksiä saamelaiset saamenpuvulle antavat. Tutkimus toteutettiin laadullisena tutkimuksena, jossa tarkasteltiin Yleisradion verkkosivulla julkaistuja saamenpukua ja kulttuurista omimista käsitteleviä artikkeleita. Artikkeleita luettiin, kunnes lisää lukemalla ei enää saatu uutta tietoa aiheesta tai enempää artikkeleita ei enää löytynyt. Niitä analysoitiin aineistolähtöisesti soveltamalla tekstiaineistoon sisällönanalyysia. Sisällönanalyysin kautta teksteistä pyrittiin löytämään toistuvia ja harvinaisempia tutkimuksen aiheeseen liittyviä ilmiöitä ja näkökulmia. Saamenpuvun merkityksiin pureuduttiin semioottisen analyysin keinoin. Tutkimuksessa selvisi, että muut kuin saamelaiset ovat käyttäneet saamenpukua tai sen kaltaisia asuja markkinointitarkoituksissa, itseilmaisussa, taiteessa sekä viihteen tekemiseen. Saamelaisille saamenpuku on merkki, joka ilmaisee alkuperäiskansaan kuulumista. Se on alkuperäiskansan jäsenille siis vaatetta merkityksellisempi asia, joka välittää aina kuvaa heistä huolimatta siitä, kenen päälle se on puettu. Saamenpukuun liittyvä kulttuurista omimista käsittelevä keskustelu johtuu pohjimmiltaan tietämättömyydestä: Suomessa saamelaisuutta ei tunneta hyvin, vaikka saamelaiset asuvat myös Suomen alueella. Jotta tietämys saamelaista lisääntyisi ja siten kulttuurisia näkökulmia ymmärrettäisiin jatkossa paremmin, olisi tärkeää, että peruskoulun opetussuunnitelman sisällöissä saamelaisuus huomioitaisiin jatkossa nykyistä laajemmin.

The purpose of this research is to study and describe how craft skills affect the choosing of a hobby for a fifties-fan who makes some of her clothes herself. In this study the questions of what is appealing of 1950s, what craft skills a fifties-fan needs for her hobby and where a fifties-fan finds inspiration and help for her crafting were examined and answered. The re-sults were compared to Vartiainen’s (2006) study about transmitting craft skills and information in virtual environments. There are no previous studies about 1950s as a hobby. The research data was collected in a group interview of three fifties-fans. All participants were females. The data was analysed based on the framework that was made for the interview. The theoretical basis of this study served as an aid in interpreting the results. The results indicate that craft and sewing skills have been a necessity for a fifties-fan to be able to dress in the 1950s’ style. 1950s have a special meaning for the fifties-fans as its masculine and feminine women’s fashion have helped the fans to become more positive about their bodies. The results indicate that problem solving of the fifties-fans is slightly different from the craft makers in Vartiainen’s (2006) study. Reality groups are more important for the fifties-fans than virtual groups. Though virtual groups are a source of inspiration and ideas for dressing up.

The oldest written sources of ryijy-rugs in Finland are from the 15th century. Ryijy-rugs were used as bedcovers and as covers in a sleigh. At first ryijy-rugs were mostly used by crown but later on became a common cover among the commonality. Change from bedcover to tapestry happened not until hundreds of years later. In the beginning of 20th century researchers became interested of ryijy-rugs in a historical point of view. This study was inspired by four ryijy-rugs found from the attic of an old farmhouse in the spring of 2018. The aim of this study is to answer the questions why these ryijy-rugs were made, by whom the ryijy-rugs were made and when the ryijy-rugs were made.

The Finnsheep and the Finnish Grey Landrace have recently been identified as two different breeds of sheep (Ovis aries). As this was achieved by genetical analyses and as many important characteristics of the wool are heritable it is possible that there are differences within the wool qualities of the Finnsheep and the Finnish Grey Landrace. The aim of this study was to find out if the Finnsheep wool fibres and the Finnish Grey Landrace wool fibres can be identified by breed when compared using stereomicroscopy techniques, and if the Finnsheep wool fibres and the Finnish Grey Landrace wool fibres have structural differences that might affect their usage as textile material. Wool fibres of two white and two brown Finnsheep ewes and two pale grey and two black Finnish Grey Landrace ewes were examined by microscopic methods. The longitudinal structures, cross sections and scale casts of fibres were examined. The scale patterns of the cuticula, the shape and structure of the medulla and the cross sections were examined by qualitative methods as well as the shape of the edges of the scales. The diameter of the fibres, the height and the rate of the scales were measured by using Motic Images Plus 2.0 ML software. The examined traits were compared between individuals, colours and breeds. No such trait was found that would have been characteristic for only one breed as there were no differences between the breeds. Most of the traits were similar between two colours instead of breeds. The results suggest that the wool fibres of the Finnsheep and the Finnish Grey Landrace can be used together as textile material. According to the results the wool fibres can’t be used to tell the two breeds apart. For future research, it might be more relevant to compare wool fibres between colours than breeds.

Tiivistelmä - Referat - Abstract This research’s main goal was to study how textiles’ substitute materials were used in Finland during the 1940’s. Research focused on what kind of substitute materials were used, in what purpose they were used and how did they work in their use. During the 1940’s there was a shortage of textiles in Finland, caused by The Second World War. The Second World War made it harder to import raw materials and textiles from around the world. In addition The Winter War and The Continuation War slowed down industrial developement and decreased domestic production. Textile shortage forced people to develop various creative ways of coping, one of which was using and developing substitute materials for textiles. Previous studies about 1940’s shortage time have been made, but the field is lacking a study about substitute materials. Many of the previous researches consentrate on studying crafts during the depression in a more general way. This study was targeted to consentrate on textiles’ substitute materials’ as a way of coping. The research was executed as qualitative historical study and the data was gathered using semi-structured interview. A woman born in 1937 was interviewed. The data was analyzed using the content analysis. In this study it was found that the usage of textiles’ substitute materials’ was perhaps not that common, as the previous studies imply. In addition the differences between the countryside and the city came up. It was found, that substitute materials were more commonly used in the city, when in the countryside people coped with what they already had.

Tavoitteet. Tutkimuksen tarkoituksena oli selvittää, minkälaista tietoa tekstiilijätteestä saadaan Helsingin Sanomien verkkoartikkeleista. Tähän etsittiin ratkaisua vastaamalla kysymyksiin, mitä tekstiilijätteestä kirjoitetaan verkkoartikkeleissa, millainen ilmiö tekstiilijätteestä muotoutuu ja millaisia teemoja kirjoituksista nousee esille. Tekstiilijäte on ajankohtainen ja ongelmallinen aihe, jonka vähentämiseksi pyritään jatkuvasti löytämään uusia keinoja. Suomessa kotitaloudet ovat suurimpia tekstiilijätteen tuottajia. Sanomalehdet tavoittavat suurimman osan suomalaisista ja niiden tarkoituksena on kuvata asiat totuudenmukaisina. Menetelmät. Tutkimus on luonteeltaan kvalitatiivinen sisällönanalyysi. Aineistona tutkimuksessa on vuosien 2010-2019 aikana ilmestyneet Helsingin Sanomien verkkoartikkelit tekstiilijätteestä. Aineisto kerättiin hyödyntämällä Helsingin Sanomien verkkolehden hakutoimintoa, hakien artikkeleita ”tekstiilijäte” hakusanalla. Aineistoon valittiin 17 artikkelia, lehden eri palstoilta. Aineiston valinnassa hyödynnettiin harkinnanvaraista otantaa jättämällä pois artikkelit, jotka vain sivusivat aihetta. Myös mielipidekirjoitukset jätettiin pois aineistosta. Aineistoa analysoitiin teemoittelemalla, hakien samalla vastauksia toiseen tutkimuskysymykseen. Tulokset. Tutkimuksessa saatiin selville, että tekstiilijätteestä kirjoitetaan monen eri teeman kautta. Verkkoartikkelit antavat hyvin laajan kuvan tekstiilijätteen synnystä ja tavoista pienentää sitä. Teksteissä painottui kuluttajan oma rooli tekstiilijätteen tuottajana ja vastuullisena kuluttajana. Tekstiilijätteeseen liittyvistä kirjoituksista nousi esille erilaisia teemoja liittyen tekstiilien kierrätykseen, kulutukseen ja ympäristövaikutuksiin. Tekstiilijätteestä muodostui kirjoitusten perusteella moniuloitteinen ilmiö, jonka ongelmallisuuteen kehitetään jatkuvasti uudenlaisia ratkaisuja.

The goal of my study is to find information about methods of extraction of nettle fiber. For hundreds of years the nettle fiber has been used as a textile material in Europe. Linen, because of its higher fiber content, and cotton, when it came to the market, replaced the use of nettle fiber and the knowledge of extraction methods of nettle fiber disappeared. Research for using nettle fiber was made in Germany during the 19th century. Shortage of textile materials during the World Wars increased interest in nettle fiber in Germany and in Britain. I carried out my study as a systematic literature review. I found the framework of the material with search engines of Helka and the internet by using search keywords. In one study nettle was grown in Tuscany in 2006–2007 and the quality of nettle was investigated. In another study nettle was grown in Prato in 2007 and influence of extraction techniques to the nettle fiber was studied. Properties of nettle fiber was studied by Bodros and Baley with the nettles collected in France. Additionally I found a study in which qualities of Himalayan giant nettle (Girardinia diversifolia L.) and European nettle (Urtica dioica L.) were compared. A study made in Latvia clarifies the quality of nettle grown in Latvia and posibility to utilize that as textile material. The article of Harwood and Edom brings out the history of study about nettle fiber during the World Wars. The methods of extraction of nettle fiber which I found became as a result of my study. Nettle fiber was seen as a eco-friendly option, although the extraction methods can increase environmental hazards. Basics in extraction of the fiber were water or chemical retting or boiling and drying and shattering the bark of processed nettle stem. The order of different phases of extraction methods could be changed or one phase could be left out. For my own experiments water retting and drying seem to be most useful.

The aim of the thesis is to visualize, analyze and interpret the elements of a good figure skating outfit in the light of literature. The thesis has its origins in the need to understand what are the starting points for the costume designer to take into account in their costume assignment and to find out, in the light of the source literature, what has been written about the design of figure skating suits and what other types of evaluation could be used to design figure skating suits. A custom-made themed figure skating outfit is often still an interesting research item in a society, and in the sporting world, that is popular with the ready-to-wear industry. The theoretical basis for the study is the TIE model application compiled by Koskennurmi-Sivonen, a user-driven FEA design model developed by Lamb and Kallal (1992). The core content of the TIE model is concerned with the consideration of three main aspects - functional, expressive and aesthetics - as a starting point for design. The purpose of the study was to find out which elements of the TIE model are associated with figure skating, what other relevant research information or literature is available and whether the information derived therefrom is applicable to the design and construction of figure skating outfits. There is little prior literature on assessment types such as figure skating, so the inclusion and exclusion criteria sought to find as many species of the same style as possible, where the theme-specific costume is both part of the evaluated competition performance as defined by the rules and a sportswear that tends to extreme movements. Finally, a total of five theses on three different sports were found. The study compares figure skating, team gymnastics and costume design features of competitive ballroom dancing, and strive to find consistent guidelines in line with the elements of the TIE model. The method was loosely applied using Torgeson's (2003) systematic literature review. The material was searched into various electronic databases in Finnish and the contents of the material were themed into a TIE model under three perspectives. The theses found were used to find the essential elements for the design of skill suits and, based on them, to outline the elements of a good figure skating suit. The design and features of team gymnastics and dance outfits were very similar to those of figure skating outfits. In all sports, all aspects of the TIE model were emphasized in a good outfit. The following was considered essential: the appearance of the suit as well as its functionality and reliability in the performance, the self-confidence and the feeling of competition, and the overall supportive character.

Tämän tutkimuksen tarkoitus oli analysoida verkkokaupasta ostavan kuluttajan osto-käyttäytymistä. Tutkimuksessani halusin saada selville, mihin asioihin kuluttajat kiin-nittävät huomionsa tehdessään vaateostoksen verkkokaupasta ja mikä oli tärkein va-lintakriteeri ostopäätöksen syntymisessä. Halusin myös selvittää, vaikuttaako kuluttajan tausta valintaan. Tutkimus on luonteeltaan kvalitatiivinen ja se toteutettiin ääneenajattelumenetelmällä. Haastatteluun valittiin harkinnanvaraisella otannalla neljä kuluttajaa, jotka tekivät kuvitteellisen ostostapahtuman verkkokaupasta syksyllä 2017. Kuluttajista kahdella oli vaatetusalan tausta ja kahdella kuluttajista oli myös kokemusta verkko-ostosten tekemisestä. Kuluttajien oli tarkoitus ajatella ääneen, mitä asioita verkkokaupan tuotteista heillä nousi mieleen ostosten teon yhteydessä. Analysoin tutkimusaineistoa aineistolähtöisellä sisällönanalyysillä, sekä kvantifioin tuloksia, jotta saisin tilastoa kuluttajien eroista. Tutkimukseen osallistuvat henkilöt kiinnittivät taustasta huolimatta eniten huomiota vaatteen leikkaukseen ja toiminnallisuuteen. Haastateltavien tausta korostui hieman materiaalin huomioimisessa, jolloin he, joilla oli vaatetusalan taustaa, tutkivat myös osittain materiaalitietoja. Johtopäätöksenä voidaan todeta, että kuluttajat kiinnittävät huomiota melko samoihin asioihin, joskin vaatetusalan perehtyneisyys saattaa hieman vaikuttaa vaatteen materiaalin huomioimiseen.

Most of the clothes we use today are ready-made garments. A few more generations ago, almost all the clothes were made by hand. Changing the importance of hand-made clothes at the social and everyday level has also influenced our appreciation for crafts. It is known that personal experiences have great significance in the formation of individual values. Our culture and our social environment also affect our values. In this qualitative study, the subject of the study was the appreciations of handmade children's clothing. My starting point for the research was my experience that handmade children's clothes are less appreciated than ready-made clothes. This study examines the views and appreciations of parents of children under school age in handmade children's clothing. The study examines also which handmade children's clothes are still used in families. The research material was collected with a semi-structured questionnaire containing both open and multiple choice questions. The questionnaire was distributed to one of the municipal nursery parents. Of the 45 questionnaires, 16 replies were received and the response rate was 35%. The research material was qualitatively analyzed using content analysis. According to research, parental appreciations for handmade children's clothing was varied. However, expressive, aesthetic, tradition and craftsmanship aspects were most appreciated in handmade children's clothing. The parents' positive experiences had an impact on their views on handmade clothing. The more positive the experiences of the parents were, the more appreciated were the aspects of craftsmanship, tradition and quality of work. If the parents' experiences of handmade clothing were relatively neutral, the aesthetic and expressive views were more pronounced in the valuations. Based on the responses, handmade garments currently used by families with children were mostly knitted woolen garments such as socks, hats, and vases. The most important feature of the clothes currently used by children is comfort. There was no clear link between the appreciation of parents' handmade garments and their handmade clothes for their children. In addition to parental valuations, other factors, such as the availability, price and availability of clothing, also affect decision-making related to the acquisition and introduction of garments.