Browsing by Subject "bygdedräkt"
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(2020)The stiffened cap has a paper frame, which is usually covered with silk fabric. The cap includes a ribbon bow and a lace trim. Caps with such a lace trim are called styckemössa in Swedish and tykkimyssy in Finnish. The aim of the study was to evaluate the of stiffened caps at the Brage costumes museum and to deepen the knowledge of the manufacture and use of caps by peasant women in the 18th and 19th centuries. The aim was to gain additional knowledge about the caps specifically in the Finland-Swedish costume culture, as well as new information on materials and the manufacture of stiffened caps in general and specifically about metal embroidered caps. In what way does the Brage collection of stiffened caps contribute to the overall picture of the Finland-Swedish peasant women's headdress? In connoisseurship analysis, the rich source material of the museum and previous knowledge were combined with practical experiments and laboratory examinations. There were 97 caps left in the collection, as well as a silk piece with gold and sequin embroidery. A significance analysis was executed based on the catalogued data and photographs. The metal embroidered fabric piece was examined by microscope and a metal analysis was conducted. The construction of the caps was examined from a craft perspective, as well as how they could be manufactured with current materials and knowledge. The cap collection opened an interesting path into the life and attire of peasant women, and above all into the importance of the stiffened cap. The collection offers a good overall picture of the development of the Finland-Swedish stiffened cap from large and heart-shaped to small with a straight front. An interesting find was nine caps from eastern Uusimaa with almost identical shape but fashioned using different fabrics. A specialty of the collection is the four caps of printed linen and the metal embroidered silk piece. The manufacture of a stiffened cap is a time-consuming craft that requires skill in everything from the manufacture of the paper frame, the embroidery and finally the mounting. The micrographs and the analysis of the metal embroidered fabric provided detailed information that was utilized in the manufacture a new cap for the Munsala traditional costume.
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(2017)This research was based on a need to repair a national costume and willingness to document the repair process. The product repaired was an old national costume from Kemiö district. The main research question was: how to repair an old national costume. The sub-questions of the research were: how to define the version of the dress, what are the limitations which the dress itself is causing to the repair options and how the traditional sewing methods of a national dress could be utilized in the repair process. Several factors were impacting the repair process, such as: traditions, the features of the dress and the target identified by the researcher. Kemiö is located in the Swedish speaking area of Finland, and therefore the aim was also to find out whether there was any special guidance related to the traditions of Swedish speaking area's national costumes. There were several problems in the costume, such as the incorrectness of some parts compared to the model costume, incorrect sewing methods used, poor shape of some items and the wrong size of some items. The research strategy used was a case study research and the research method was autoethnography. Some features of the practice-led research were utilized as well. The data consists of narratives and notes written by the researcher during the research process as well as photographs of phases before and after repair. The data was analyzed by reflecting the narratives and the analysis is merged with the data. The best suitable practices regarding the repair of this specific national costume taking into consideration the targets defined by the researcher were identified as a result of this research. Some of the research results can benefit other repair processes as well, even though the target was not to create generalizable guidance.
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