Browsing by Subject "hengittävyys"

Wool is a biodegradable fibre that has been produced and used in Finland for centuries. The local cultural heritage includes knitted clothes resembling soft shell fabrics, such as the so called tikkuri, which is a traditional fisherman’s sweater from Hailuoto. Finnsheep is an old Finnish landrace, but its wool has been underused for a long time and not much is known about its qualities regarding especially clothing physiology. Breathability is one of the most important factors for any clothing and especially so in outdoor activities where sweat rate can chance rapidly. The aim of this study was to determine factors affecting water vapour permeability of Finnsheep wool knitted fabric to estimate Finnsheep wool’s potential as a soft shell type textile for outdoor clothing. A common cup test method was used to measure the water vapour permeability of samples that were knitted exclusively from white Finnsheep wool yarns. Two different yarns, two skeins each, from one spinning mill were used to knit samples in single knit. Average linear density (tex), twist counts, yarn structure and lipid content (%) were measured for all four skeins. Knit gauge, loop length and square meter weight of fabric were also measured. Results were analysed using non-parametric statistical methods as parametric methods could not be used due to small sample sizes. All measured yarn and fabric parameters affected samples’ breathability, but fabric parameters only correlated with the amount of the water vapour that had completely passed the fabric. Fabric parameters did not affect fabric’s ability to absorb water vapour. Linear density and lipid concentration correlated negatively with water vapour that had passed the fabric, whereas vapor absorption correlated with both twist counts and lipid concentration. Findings suggest that the best breathability results would be achieved using thin fabrics with a tight gauge. Thinner fabrics tend to have poorer heat insulation properties meaning that the structure of shell clothing knitwear should not be determined by just one feature. Surprisingly, the wool lipid concentration correlated positively with samples’ absorption abilities. In order to prevent water vapour from absorbing into woollen knitted fabrics, only yarns with low lipid concentration should be used. Sample sizes were small so these results should not be generalized. Instead, they inspire future research about Finnsheep wool and especially wool lipid’s role in physiological aspects of Finnsheep wool knitwear.