Browsing by Subject "kansanpuku"

The stiffened cap has a paper frame, which is usually covered with silk fabric. The cap includes a ribbon bow and a lace trim. Caps with such a lace trim are called styckemössa in Swedish and tykkimyssy in Finnish. The aim of the study was to evaluate the of stiffened caps at the Brage costumes museum and to deepen the knowledge of the manufacture and use of caps by peasant women in the 18th and 19th centuries. The aim was to gain additional knowledge about the caps specifically in the Finland-Swedish costume culture, as well as new information on materials and the manufacture of stiffened caps in general and specifically about metal embroidered caps. In what way does the Brage collection of stiffened caps contribute to the overall picture of the Finland-Swedish peasant women's headdress? In connoisseurship analysis, the rich source material of the museum and previous knowledge were combined with practical experiments and laboratory examinations. There were 97 caps left in the collection, as well as a silk piece with gold and sequin embroidery. A significance analysis was executed based on the catalogued data and photographs. The metal embroidered fabric piece was examined by microscope and a metal analysis was conducted. The construction of the caps was examined from a craft perspective, as well as how they could be manufactured with current materials and knowledge. The cap collection opened an interesting path into the life and attire of peasant women, and above all into the importance of the stiffened cap. The collection offers a good overall picture of the development of the Finland-Swedish stiffened cap from large and heart-shaped to small with a straight front. An interesting find was nine caps from eastern Uusimaa with almost identical shape but fashioned using different fabrics. A specialty of the collection is the four caps of printed linen and the metal embroidered silk piece. The manufacture of a stiffened cap is a time-consuming craft that requires skill in everything from the manufacture of the paper frame, the embroidery and finally the mounting. The micrographs and the analysis of the metal embroidered fabric provided detailed information that was utilized in the manufacture a new cap for the Munsala traditional costume.

The premise of the thesis was to study Finland’s folk costume’s most prominent aspects and develop learning material based on those aspects. I started by reviewing literature connected to the topic about teaching materials. Based on the results, I concluded that quite a bit of research has been done about folk costumes’ history, and there exists a fairly extensive amount of literature about it. However, there wasn’t that much teaching material available about folk costumes, even though a need for it has been recognized. Therefore, the mission for my thesis became to develop introductory teaching material about folk costumes for beginners. The goal for this thesis is to develop a folk costume manual, that offers an extensive information packet for beginners, along with instructions for wearing and acquiring one. As a research method I chose design-based research which consists of developing the teaching material and the theory of its development. I started the development of the manual by mapping out, what meanings are associated with folk costumes. This was carried out by interviewing four experts. The results were narratives of their experiences around folk costumes. These narratives were divided into categories to be used as material for the first draft of developing the manual, along with literary reviews. The first draft was tested by a heuristic review, in which three of the assessors of the previous step were evaluating the manual by making notes about ideas for developments and other comments. A heuristic list was offered to support the evaluation. Then, the notes were summarized into comments, and the experts classified them based on their prominence. The manual was developed based on the comments, if the experts estimated the problem to be significant. The result of the design-based research is a folk costume manual, and information about the development process. An expert interview and a heuristic evaluation proved to be functional methods for developing this type of learning material. Two themes were highlighted in relation to folk costumes in the experts’ comments: Way of speaking and vocabulary with which the costumes’ instructions and recommendations are being described, and versatility of the folk costumes. These themes had a significant impact on the folk costume manual as well.

This is a research of the use and manufacture of Finland's various folk costumes and its related meanings. You can see folk costume in Finland rarely, although in many places people are still using them a lot. In dressing it is its own world to use the folk costume. The study had three research issues that were used to investigate the matter. Research issues investigated different meanings of folk costumes for their users and analyzed what the folk costumes means its user and manufacturer. The study analyzed what kind of things people can attach to use of the folk costumes. The study research what kind of role crafts had when people are making the folk costumes and whether handicrafts are needed in the manufacture of folk costume. At the beginning of the study, two theme interviews had been conducted to the people who are working with the folk costumes and based on these theme interviews, an internet-based questionnaire was prepared. The questionnaire was assigned to the target group in social media. In Facebook there are groups, with members of the people who are interested in folk costumes and many of them use folk costumes regularly. 78 people responded to the questionnaire. The study material was analyzed by a qualitative and quantitative method. Based on this investigation, it was found that the folk costume and its utilization played great importance to their users. Each user had its own meaning to the use of the folk costume, but in the investigation, the biggest importance rose to bringing their own family roots. The use of folk costume joined the user's identity, as its use is a very visible communication. In the study, it was clear that hobbies have a great role in the manufacture of folk costumes, as many defendants reported that they were a handicraft enthusiast but felt to be too novice to make a challenging folk costume for themselves.