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Browsing by Subject "näyttämöpuku"

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  • Konttinen, Anni (2016)
    The objective for my study was to analyse the collaboration between a professional costume designer and a professional cutter. My assumption was that a successful collaboration in a long-term collegial relationships requires both personal and organizational knowhow which is often difficult to articulate, whereas this kind of knowledge is essential for maintaining the skill required in these professions. According to former studies, the technical guidelines in this kind of process are explicable whereas the specific know-how typically remains tacit. In order to articulate and transmit the tacit, organizational knowledge should be processed on different levels and from various points of view. The focus of my study was in the process of designing and making a stage costume, and the viewpoint more specifically in the tacit and explicit knowledge within this process. The questions were about the characteristics and the know-how in the process of designing and executing a stage costume. How do the designer and the cutter as experts in their own field transmit it to each other? How is the development and transmission of sectoral knowledge sustained and cumulated in this process? The data of this case study was collected in Helsinki City Theatre during years 2014–2016. It consisted of three interviews and two observations. My focus group was Sari Salmela, a costume designer and Riikka Canth, a cutter. In this study they were both considered as experts due to their long-term collegial collaboration and personal working experience. For the analysis I categorised the interview and observation data according to themes. The data was mirrored against literacy, theoretical background, and then interpreted basing on the process model of co-designing. Based on the interview data the process first involves – in addition to the focus group – the group of the director, designers, and actors. When the process proceeds from defining the guidelines to executing the costume itself the responsibility is fully passed to the costume department. The visible part of designer's and cutter's know-how appeared as explicit and combined to tacit via intuition. This construction seemed to increase trust which both of them considered crucial. As experts in their own field, they were able to transmit their know-how in both directions in an equal setting. Close-knit collaboration, interaction, and trust between the colleagues plays an important role in transmitting the knowledge. When the outcome, the costume, meets with the guidelines set in the beginning, the knowledge can be considered successfully transmitted.
  • Avikainen, Elisa (2016)
    The main interest of this study was scenographer Kirsi Manninen and her career as a costume designer in Winter Circus of Hurjaruuth. The purpose of this study was to describe the costume designing processes in Winter Circus productions and to find out what possibilities and challenges circus sets to costume designing. Referring to previous studies (Checkland, 1986; Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, 2000; Zeisel, 1984) designing processes can be seen as movements between different levels, where reality and idea levels are compared to each other. Designing is also seen as iteratively moving process, where the completed products are created via many acceptable solutions. This study is qualitative and its manner of an approach is a case study. Material for this study was gathered with a theme interview from Kirsi Manninen. Material was analyzed adapting to theoretically orientated content analysis. Baseline of the study was designer-orientated nor than production-orientated. The centre of the analysis was not about the themes or details of circus productions but designering and artefacts behind them. This study showed that Manninen's designing process proceeds iteratively between four different dimensions. As a result of collected material of this study and referring to previous models there was a model created that describes Manninen's designing process in circus productions. The dimensions, based on collected material were named as team, user, substance and composition. A costume designer is working in a part of multi-artistic team. This team creates the whole play in tight co-operation. Theme of the play defines the baselines for working. Each costume is designed individually for a user, taking into account personal features, movement, safety and character that are performed. Costumes and the substance transmit different kind of moods and messages. They have also a magnificent role as a storytelling part of the play. The final costume and the composition of it are formed by color, shape and material, applying different kind of techniques.