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Browsing by Subject "purete"

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  • Ylänen, Joanna (2020)
    Research of natural dyes and more ecofriendly textile materials has been of common interest for years. Research of natural dyes has mostly focused on the dyeing of wool, cotton, silk and regenerated cellulosic fibers. This study expands on this topic by combining natural dyes with the latest regenerated cellulosic fiber Ioncell®. When starting this study there was no previous research about the dyeing of Ioncell® and the most recently published research had only fo-cused on industrial dyes. By varying mordant type, acidity and colorant type, their respective effect on the fiber dye up-take could be studied. The data consisted of color measurements of the dyed samples, which were used to analyze the fiber dye uptake. The mordants used were alum, ferrous sulfate and tannic acid with unmordanted reference samples. Acidities used for the dye baths were pH 4 and pH 8. The colorants were dried skins of yellow onions [Allium cepa] and Cortinarius semisanguineus. Wool was used as a reference material for Ioncell® due to its color taking properties being well known and therefore, the dyeing process could be easily verified by it. A spectrophotometer was used for the color measurements. The color uptaking was evaluated by observing the color of the dyed samples and the differences in color between the undyed and dyed fibers. The color fastness to laundering as well as to artificial light were evaluated according to the standards SFS-ENG ISO-B02 and SFS-ENG ISO-C06 by assessing the col-or change, and fastness to laundering was also assessed by the staining of the multifiber ad-jacent fabrics. For a cellulosic fiber, Ioncell's® color uptake was low in alkaline dye baths. With Cortinarius semisanguineus as the colorant, the color take was low regardless of the acidity and the mor-dant type. With Allium cepa as the colorant, in the acid dye bath the color take was quite good. The color varied depending on the mordant used. However, these strong colors had lower color fastness to laundering than the pale colored samples. During staining differences occurred on the behalf of Allium cepa. Acidity or mordant only had an effect on the staining with alum mordanted samples dyed with Cortinarius semisanguineus. The best color fastness to light had alum and iron mordanted samples dyed with Allium cepa. With the tannin and iron mordants the acidity correlated with the color fastness to light, higher pH giving better results. During staining acidity or mordant only had an effect on alum mordanted samples dyed with Cortinarius semisanguineus. For further studies it would be interesting to see if the surprising results between flavonoid and anthraquinoine could be repeated with other dye source mate-rial and would the color uptake improve with the sodium pretreatment of Ioncell® fibers.