Browsing by Subject "selluloosa- ja selluloosamuuntokuitu"

Faculty: Faculty of Educational Sciences Degree programme: Master’s Programme in Education Study track: Craft Teacher Education Author: Susanna Kirvesniemi Title: Colour from a weed – Scentless mayweed as a dye source for cellulose and regener-ated cellulose fiber Level: Master’s Thesis Month and year: March 2023 Number of pages: 58 pp. + 9 appendices Keywords: Scentless mayweed, natural colorant, cellulose and regenerated cellulose fi-bers, protein fiber, alum, aluminium compounds Supervisor or supervisors: Riikka Räisänen Where deposited: Helsinki University Library – Helda / E-thesis (theses) Additional information: Abstract: This empirical experimental study investigated the functionality of the scentless mayweed (Tripleurospermum inodorum) as a source of dye for cellulose and regenerated cellulose fi-bers (flax, bamboo viscose) and wool was used as reference fiber, which as a protein fiber, is best for dyeing with natural dyes. Tannin and aluminum compounds were used as mor-dants. This study was part of a larger study by the BioColour project, which aimed to pro-duce information on mordants residues in dyeing baths. With this study, the research data was produced, and the colour fastness was analyzed from the dyed textile materials. The research data was carried out using two different methods, a separate mordanting and dye-ing method (linen, bamboo viscose and wool) and a combined mordanting and dyeing method (bamboo viscose and wool). The colour fastness was determined according to in-ternational ISO standards. The total colour change (∆ELab*) was largest after washing with an alkaline standard deter-gent on linen (∆ELab* 11.77) extracted with aluminum acetate and bamboo viscose mor-danted with alum (∆E Lab*11.36). The overall change in the colour of the bamboo viscose mordanted with alum was largest (∆ELab* 10.17) also with pH-neutral detergent. On pH-neutral detergent washed linens mordanted with tannin and aluminium acetate (∆ELab* 0,85) and aluminium acetate (∆ELab* 1,32) and bamboo viscose which was mordanted with aluminium acetate (∆ELab* 1,57) had a slight change in overall colour. For wool, samples washed with alkaline standard detergent all had a large overall colour change (∆ELab* 18.99–24.98). For wool washed with a pH-neutral standard detergent, the overall colour change was significantly less (∆ELab* 9.49–15.37). The overall colour change of bamboo viscose dyed with the combined mordanting and dyeing method and washed with an alka-line standard detergent was large (∆ELab* 10.77–17.94) and the overall colour change of those washed with pH-neutral standard detergent was minor (∆ELab* 1.38–7.9). Assessing the colour change on the gray-gray scale gave a rating of 1–4 for linen washed with standard detergent, 1–3 for bamboo viscose and 3–4 for wool. After washing the col-our of the wool was visually brighter than the colour of the unwashed dyed wool. Using the combined method mordanting and dyeing method, the assessment of the colour change of the dyed material on the gray-gray scale gave bamboo viscose a rating of 1 and wool a rat-ing of 3–4. When assessing colour staining on a gray-gray scale, the lowest grade (3–4) came from the bleached cotton of multi-fiber fabric and the highest grade from the wool of the multi-fiber fabric (4–5). Light fastness was best in linen mordanted with tannic and alu-minum lactate/acetate (4). Wool received a rating 2–3, it turned brown during the test, bam-boo viscose had the worst lightfastness, and it received a rating 1. The grades were 3–5 for dry rubbing and 2–5 for wet rubbing. As expected, the dye extracted from the scentless mayweed had a lower dyeing ability for the cellulose and regenerated cellulose fiber than wool. Thus, scentless mayweed can be seen to be more suitable for dyeing protein fibers than cellulose and regenerated cellulose fiber.