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Browsing by discipline "Käsityötiede"

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  • Varmola, Milka (2014)
    In this study I examine how textiles were patched and darned in Finland from the 1920s to the 1960s, and how changes in everyday life affected it. Modernization, the following of fashion and the rise of ready-made clothes industry in the 1920s declined into a shortage of textiles and a demand on self-sufficiency during the war years in the 1940s. After the war clothes were bought ready from shops and their value related to people's assets was reduced. Alike, people's attitudes towards textiles and mending them changed. The data for my study consisted of articles from Kotiliesi, Omin käsin and Emäntälehti from 1924 to 1959, contemporary guidebooks from 1920 to 1966 and craft teacher students' samples and notebooks from the the 1920s to the 1940s. In addition I interviewed four women who were born between the years 1918 and 1938, three orally and one with written questionnaire. Because mending textiles has hardly been studied in previous research, I needed to gather the information from many sources. I used different qualitative data analysis and discourse analysis methods to put together pieces of the story. In the 1920s and the 1930s mending textiles was considered almost a platitude. Especially in the countryside the majority of clothes and home textiles were self-made or made to order, although in the cities ready-made clothes could already be purchased. The value of a single cloth was considerable and because of that a lot of time was spent on mending it and different instructions how to darn by hand or with a sewing machine were published in women's magazines and contemporary guidebooks. New textiles were hard to purchase during the depression caused by the Winter War and the Continuation War, therefore good care had to be taken of the textiles already found from homes. Instructions and articles focused especially on advices on how to patch socks. After the war mending of textiles was often emotionally connected to the shortage of the wartime and the amount of mending instructions given in women's magazines decreased. New type of nylon socks reduced the need to darn and patch them, but Kotiliesi still published articles on how to mend different types of clothes, though the instructions were directed to skillful light-fingered women. Publishing articles about mending in women's magazines ended in the 1950s, but the women I interviewed told that they have continued mending until present-day. At the end of my study I consider why mending is still current in the 21st century.
  • Siekkinen, Anne-Mari (2007)
    The aim of the thesis was to compare the correspondence of the outcome a computer assisted program appearance compared to the original image. The aspect of the study was directed to embroidery with household machines. The study was made from the usability point of view with Brother's PE-design 6.0 embroidery design programs two automatic techniques; multicoloured fragment design and multicoloured stitch surface design. The study's subject is very current because of the fast development of machine embroidery. The theory is based on history of household sewing machines, embroidery sewing machines, stitch types in household sewing machines, embroidery design programs as well as PE-design 6.0 embroidery design program's six automatic techniques. Additionally designing of embroidery designs were included: original image, digitizing, punching, applicable sewing threads as well as the connection between embroidery designs and materials used on embroidery. Correspondences of sewn appearances were examined with sewing experimental methods. 18 research samples of five original image were sewn with both techniques. Experiments were divided into four testing stages in design program. Every testing stage was followed by experimental sewing with Brother Super Galaxie 3100D embroidery machine. Experiments were reported into process files and forms made for the techniques. Research samples were analysed on images syntactic bases with sensory perception assessment. Original images and correspondence of the embroidery appearances were analysed with a form made of it. The form was divided into colour and shape assessment in five stage-similarity-scale. Based on this correspondence analysis it can be said that with both automatic techniques the best correspondence of colour and shape was achieved by changing the standard settings and using the makers own thread chart and edited original image. According to the testing made it is impossible to inform where the image editing possibilities of the images are sufficient or does the optimum correspondence need a separate program. When aiming at correspondence between appearances of two images the computer is unable to trace by itself the appearance of the original image. Processing a computer program assisted embroidery image human perception and personal decision making are unavoidable.
  • Leivo, Elina (2015)
    The purpose of this research is to describe, analyse and interpret teachers' experiences of the Happy learning house model (HLH) and its functioning in learning and teaching. The functioning of the HLH is reflected against the national curriculum (2014) and the theory concerning individual learning styles, the conceptions of learning and assessment.The research concentrates on these areas as, looking at the functioning of the HLH, they are important part of learning and teaching. HLH model has been developed to support learning and teaching. In addition there is a belief that with its help the national curriculum will become more relevant to a child. Three teachers working in primary schools in Helsinki who had been using the HLH for a trial period took part in the research. Interview questions were based on theory. The three teachers had different kind of experiences of the HLH. All of them had set their own targets in the HLH together with the pupils at the beginning of the academic year. All three teachers had also spent some one on one time with pupils colouring the HLH and therefore monitored their progress. On top of that one of the teachers had brought into use the individual themes of the pupils. All three teachers agreed that HLH increases the individual attention each pupil gets and changes the culture of assessment. They felt HLH had helped them to know the pupils better and their interests and progress had become more visible. Teaching and learning itself hadn't changed considerably though except with one of the teachers. This was due to her bringing into use the individual themes. My research shows that when a pupil gets more individual attention with the help of the HLH it is linked to a better self-assessment of the pupils and it also increases the ability to be aware of their own strengths and weaknesses. This furthermore helps the pupil to have a better self-esteem. Using the individual themes in teaching clearly supports the new idea of conception of learning and it also affects assessment. Therefore when it comes to assessment teachers don't expect the same results and skills from all the pupils but rather stress the importance of understanding the learnt concept.
  • Takalo, Taina (2020)
    The importance of design skills and problem solving is emphasized in the basics of the core curriculum. The challenging process of craft design includes multiple stages. To reach desired results, the education of the craft design process should reflect the children's own experiences and take the typical ways of processing matters at different age into account. The objective of this thesis was to find out how play and playfulness as pedagogical operations models conduce to completion of the design process. Design based research was used as the main research method. The creative process and the design phases using play based methods were the objects of this development work. A defragmented learning synthesis, where a story and a linked building game work as the starting point of the entire craft process, was formed as the progeny of the development research. The development research began with a theoretical problem analysis which helped outline the interface of the play activity and the creative craft process. The theoretical frame of reference playful craft is based on this interface. The testing of the learning ensemble and the practical development work was carried out as a two-week project including six teaching sessions of different durations. The learning ensemble was implemented as pupil group work. 12 pupils who were separated into four research groups took part in this research. The research material consists of observations, a research diary and documents and products produced by the pupils during the research. Based on the research outcome it can be assumed that the different forms of play can support the completion of different stages of design process. Pretend play fuels the development of ideas and works as a source of inspiration and creativity. Play contributes to team work skills and planning together as well as discussing the pupils' own ideas and work. Play and playful attitude can increase the joy of learning and motivate the activity in process.
  • Sohlman, Annukka (2007)
    The aim of this thesis was to study what kind of home-made menstrual pads were used in the early 20th century in Finland, how the home-made pads were made and which techniques and materials were used. The use and taking care of menstrual pads were also explored. The history of menstrual pads has been studied in Sweden, Germany and United States but none of those studies has concentrated on home-made pads. Instead, there are many studies about womanhood and menstruation. In many studies home-made menstrual pads are only briefly mentioned. Menstrual pads were not commonly used in Finland at the beginning of the 20th century, but already in the 1940s the use of menstrual pads had become common in every stratum of society. Home-made menstrual pads were used even until the 1960s. In Finland, factory-made disposable menstrual pads became common only in the 1930s and they were only slowly accepted. The study material consisted of nine interviews, three archival inquiries, health care guidebooks from 1893 to 1943 and authentic menstrual pads, menstrual belts and other objects related to them. The interviewed women were born between 1915 and 1939. The narrative approach was used in the study and it also guided the analysis. The interview and archival data were studied according to the basic rules of oral history studies. Literature consisted of publications from several disciplines. The extensive primary material played the most important role in this study. The reconstructions of the menstrual pads were made according to the interviewed women's advice. In Finland there were innumerable variations of home-made menstrual pads. The pads were most commonly crocheted and knitted either by hand or by knitting machine. Pads were also sewn of cloth, old bed linen or old underwear. The menstrual pads were self-made or made by a female relative. Word of mouth was important in spreading information on how to make pads, because there were hardly any instructions available. The biggest pads were 54 cm long and 13 cm wide. The most widely used pad model was a rectangle, which had triangle-shaped ends with a buttonhole or a loop. The pad was attached to the menstrual belt or to the buttons of the suspender belt. Knitted and crocheted pads had one, two or three layers. In sewn pads, there could be even more layers. Cellulose wadding or pieces of cloth could be placed inside the pad to increase the absorption ability. The experiences of the comfort of self-made pads varied. The crocheted and sewn pads were found chafing, knitted ones were found soft and comfortable. The menstrual pads were laborious to wash and boil in lye water. Therefore disposable pads made everyday life easier. The home-made menstrual pads were part of a unique tradition of handicrafts and folk culture. Hand-made pads were one of the most common handicraft products and were a part of every woman's life. Even so, the menstrual pads were unnoticeable. The large number of variations was probably caused by the silence around menstrual topics and by the lack of instructions for making pads. Variations are also explained by the uniqueness of every handicraft product. In Finland the home-made pads were used until relatively recent times. This was caused by the conditions of wartime and the following years and the rarity of commercial pads. Furthermore, until the late 20th century Finland was an agricultural society where all innovations spread slowly. Home-made menstrual pad was a secret handicraft of women and every woman needed to know how to make it by herself.
  • Nuutila, Anni (2014)
    Craft education serves as a potential platform for students' creativity. The focus of craftwork studies has lately been changing form technique learning and product making to more creative direction. This is also evident in the new, 2016 launched, curriculum of craft education. The curriculum emphasizes craftwork as a more experimental and exploratory subject where different techniques and materials are combined. The purpose of this Master's Thesis was to develop new and more creative ways to teach craftwork. The project consists of three parts. In the first phase, different ideas were mapped by brainstorming and utilizing existing theories. Subsequently, based on the ideas from the first phase a teaching module was built. The execution of the scheme was documented by filming a video. In the last phase the video material was analyzed and creative activities were highlighted. Eventually, by combining the existing theories and observations from the video an outline for online material for creative craftwork teaching was develop. This teaching material aims to approach craft education from a more creative and expressive point of view. This project indicated that several factors affect the creative craft process. Giving enough time and encouragement to all students' individual craftsmanship proved to be important for increasing creativity among students. Possibility to explore different materials and techniques had also a positive effect on creativity. Team work, encouraging and casual atmosphere contributed also to the creative process. Teacher's role as a supporter and inspirer was also important. The produced web material is based on the observations from this study and also supports the new craft curriculum. The material is online and thus easily available for everybody. In addition, a Facebook page was created to encourage people for more interactive conversation. www.luovalanka.wordpress.com
  • Kyllönen, Kukka-Maaria (2009)
    Purpose This study focused on craft from a standpoint of phenomenological philosophy and craft was interpreted through Maurice Merleau-Ponty's phenomenology of the body. The main focus was the physical phase of the craft process, wherein a product is made from material. The aim was to interpret corporality in craft. There is no former research focusing on lived body in craft science. Physical, bodily making is inalienable in craft, but it is not articulated. Recent discussion has focused on craft as "whole", which emphasizes designing part in the process, and craft becomes conceptualized with the theories of art and design. The axiomatic yet silenced basis of craft, corporality, deserves to become examined as well. That is why this study answers the questions: how craft manifests in the light of phenomenology of the body and what is corporality in craft? Methods In this study I cultivated a phenomenological attitude and turned my exploring eye on craft "in itself". In addition I restrained myself from mere making and placed myself looking at the occurrence of craft to describe it verbally. I read up Maurice Merleau-Ponty's phenomenology of the body on his principal work (2002) and former interpretations of it. Interpreting and understanding textual data were based on Gadamer's hermeneutics, and the four-pronged composition of the study followed Koski's (1995) version of the Gadamerian process of textual interpretation. Conclusions In the construction of bodily phenomenology craft was to be contemplated as a mutual relationship between the maker and the world materializing in bodily making. At the moment of making a human being becomes one with his craft, and the connection between the maker, material and the equipment appears as communication. Operational dimension was distinctive in the intentionality of craft, which operates in many ways, also in craft products. The synesthesia and synergy of craft were emphasized and craft as bodily practice came to life through them. The moment of making appeared as situation generating time and space, where throwing oneself into making may give the maker an experience of upraise beyond the dualism of mind and body. The conception of the implicit nature of craft knowledge was strengthened. In the light of interpretation it was possible to conceptualize craft as a performance and making "in itself" as a work of art. In that case craft appeared as bodily expression, which as an experience approaches art without being it after all. The concept of aesthetic was settled into making as well. Bodily and phenomenological viewpoint on craft gave material to critically contemplate the concept of "whole craft" (kokonainen käsityö) and provided different kind of understanding of craft as making.
  • Pajula, Laura (2015)
    Making leather includes multiple phases and there are several options when executing each phase. The selected tanning method affects most to the properties of finished leather. In literature there are lots of descriptions about the methodology of how to tan furs and skins in a traditional way, but there are only a little information about the properties of these naturally tanned fur skins. The aim of this study is to analyse different kinds of traditional and environmentally friendly tanning methods to be able to make durable leather of a good quality. The research problems of this study are to find the most practical method for tanning wild furs and to analyse if it is possible to make high-quality leather by using natural ways of tanning leather. A review of the literature inspired the idea of comparing single-component tannages against a combination of two conventional tannages. The most practical methods were chosen from the traditional and the easiest ways of tanning furs. Chosen methods were tanning with tealeaves, willow (salix), sour porridge, urine, Novaltan Al and Pretanix C. The data was collected from three red foxes, which were tanned in 11 different ways: six single-component tannages and five combinations of two tannages. Fur skin properties were investigated for tear strength, elongation, water vapour permeability, shrinkage temperature, hair fastness and surface structure. The data collected was mostly numeric and it was analyzed by Spearman's rank-correlation. Scanning electron microscopic photos were taken from the leather surface and the results were compared against numeric data. This study shows that thinner leathers had better tear strength and relative elongation. Water vapour permeability results analyzed with SEM-pictures revealed that aluminium-based Novaltan Al made the leather surface smoother allowing water vapour to pass through it. Meanwhile, other tannages made the surface more spongy, possibly soaking moisture into leather. Plant based tannages had higher shrinkage temperature than any other tannages. The results showed that using two conventional tannages made the leather properties better compared to single-component tannages. The best and probably most practical tanning method according to this study was combination tanning by using tealeaves and Novaltan Al. It's important to think of the desired properties for the leather, and then choose the tanning method that makes wanted properties possible.
  • Nikunen, Sari (2017)
    In order to develop safer textile materials, ecological manufacturing processes and to protect biodiversity, it is important to develop better and more organic production methods. Many plants and fungi used for natural dyes contain biologically active compounds. The antimicrobial properties of natural dyes have been studied, but their toxic effects have hardly been examined. The purpose of this study was to analyse the toxicity of plant and fungal dyes and dyed fabrics based on pre-collected observation material. The effects of ethanol extracts of Cortinarius semisanguineus, Tapinella atrotomentosa, Tanacetum vulgare (tansy) and Salix (willow) and dyed wool were determined by statistical tests. The viability of the cultured Hepa-1 cells were investigated after one and three days of exposure. The effects were found to be more toxic with higher ethanol concentrations. T. atrotomentosa and T. vulgare were the most cytotoxic natural dyes. C. semisanguineus and Salix dyes were at the most mildly harmful. Fabric samples did not show significant toxicity. At the highest non-toxic ethanol concentrations (2%) all dyed fabrics were only mildly toxic. Based on this analysis, the samples dyed with natural dyes did not differ from the effects of untreated wool.
  • Vyyryläinen, Niina (2018)
    This study examines the technique of natural dyeing in the context of the craft teaching. This research explores the natural color chart of Finland’s nature in mordant dyeing of woolen yarns. The objective is to compile a selection of Finnish natural colors and colorants that are suitable and environmentally friendly in mordant dyeing procedure. In this research I explore also the phenomenon of multidisciplinary approach as a teaching method. The study combines a theory of natural dyes together with environmental education, craft design and modern ways of dyeing. The research is based on collection of natural dyed yarn samples and those related notes made by dyer. These woolen yarn samples were dyed in Southern Finland between decades 1970 and 1990 by one enthusiast. In classification of yarn samples I used qualitative methods to observe visual properties of these yarns. After evaluation the research material consisted of N=178 yarn and 20 different quality of woolen yarns. These 20 samples were tested under the microscope and by burning yarn samples to recognize fiber materials without lab circumstances. The color values were measured by spectrophotometer. These CIELAB codes helped me to find various hues for the color palette. With code numbers the use of colors is possible also in the digital environments like computer graphics. The digital use of colors in design is made possible by changing the color map values to RGB and CMYK color codes used by image editing software and printers. These codes enable the use of digital colors in teaching, design and printing. The study combines post-positivistic and qualitative research methods in the theoretical framework. All conclusions of the Finnish natural colors and colorants in this study are applicable only to the used research material and yarns that are researched. The analysis was conducted by one researcher only, which may have affected on the reliability and validity of the study. On a basic level the range of hues in Finnish color chart for woolen yarn contains yellow, red, green, brown and dark shades. Also, rare shades of blue are possible to find and dye with Finnish natural dyes, but those colors are not included in the color chart. I observed that natural dyes are suitable for environmental education when using natural or nontoxic mordant. Introduced color chart is intended to be used in craft teaching when design items and dye yarns for products made by hand. Environmental education and craft design are easy topics to combine with natural dyeing process in craft teaching. Practical activity, sustainable utilization of the surrounding environment, and the experience in engaging and influencing on environmental issues also support the student’s nature relations in the teaching of crafts.
  • Heinonen, Eeva (2018)
    The purpose of my research is to achieve as wide description of creativity as possible in the viewpoint of the students of Basic Art Education in Arts and Crafts. Creativity was seen to consist of four areas, which were creative person, creative process, creative product and creative environment. In this study these basic elements of creativity were seen in the perspective of crafts. In the theoretical framework the areas of creativity were linked with the whole system based theory of creativity, self-determination of the person, design and making of the product process and models of the creative process and product. The research question was: how the students of Basic Art Education in Arts and Crafts define creativity. By more specified questions the creativity was studied from the viewpoint of its four elements. The research was a qualitative case study and the data was gathered by interviewing six adult students who studied in advanced level of Basic Art Education in Arts and Crafts studies in Valkeakoski Lifelong Learning Centre. The method of the interview was half structured theme interview. The interviewees were free to tell about their experiences guided by appropriate questions. The method of analysing was a theory guided content analysis. Creativity was seen as self-expression and problem solving where open questions in the task giving gave the best possible starting point to creativity. Creativity needed inner motivation. This way the student felt the task inspiring and it was joy to work by one’s own free will. Creative craft making was seen to increase wellbeing and served as mental resources. The students felt that good skills helped their working. Typical to creativity was that the product developed and changed throughout the working process. In addition, creativity showed as a personal and aesthetic product by which one could express own experiences and feelings. The students wanted the craft product to be functional, come in handy and been properly made. Supporting, confidential and positive atmosphere in the group was seen to improve the creativity. Absence of competition, stress given by evaluation and time limits had a positive impact on creativity. By the results the positive attitude of the teacher rose into a crucial role. Inspiration and a real interest towards the students and an allowing attitude was seen to encourage into creativity. The teacher was seen to sustain the inclusive and communal working ethos and its impact to motivation and creativity was important. Creativity is a diverse phenomenon which includes features connected to personal qualities, process, product and the environment which all are connected to each other. Inner motivated person can work experimentally in a supportive and permissive atmosphere and the result is a personal craft product. Although the results give an example of a small group’s conceptions of creativity, they can be applied into craft as a hobby or craft in basic education in order to improve and promote creativity of the students.
  • Volotinen, Iina (2018)
    The purpose of this Master’s Thesis was to study the various types of objectives and contents created in a makerspace set in Finnish comprehensive school, and to find practices for developing similar innovative learning environments. The starting point was a research problem according to which the infrastructure of several comprehensive schools is in many ways inadequate in relation to the latest national core curriculum (POPS 2014), and therefore it fails to serve the acquisition of 21st century skills. The larger theoretical framework of this thesis is a socio constructivist learning theory, within which I review research done on learning environments and learning by making, with emphasis on design-oriented maker-culture. Previous studies have shown that inadequate physical learning environments may have negative impacts on learning and well-being in schools. Furthermore, there is strong scientific proof that emphasizing student-centered education and self-direction furthers learning. The research subject was the makerspace of a design education-oriented comprehensive school, whose concept has been selected as an educational innovation for the international project HundrED. The research approach selected was a case study and its qualitative data collected discretionarily through expert interviews. Visual anthropology as a research method enabled the use of visuality as part of content analysis. The analysis revealed that the makerspace aims at creating wide-ranging contents and objectives across school subject borders. Design methods are applied to the makerspace as part of both official and informal teaching. Data-based content analysis yielded a narrative image of the various stages of the creating process, pedagogical thinking of interviewees, and the still developing nature of the makerspace. The results of the thesis can be used particularly in creating new learning environments, which are making their way into basic education. Additionally, the results can be applied to designing and planning new schools.
  • Liesvirta, Ülle (2007)
    In this thesis, taking place within the clothing industry of Finland, the impact of the globalisation of the economy on the pattern-maker's job was studied and the present day fields of know-how of the job were found out. The thesis answers the questions, what are the characteristics of the pattern-maker's job nowadays, and what areas of the know-how in the pattern-maker's job form the core know-how, which is repeated in every organisation. Earlier studies of the subject do not exist in Finland. Similar studies have been made in USA (Staples 1993) and in Estonia (2002). Pattern-makers who took part in this study were located in the Finnish clothing companies manufacturing or having clothes manufactured in series production, like clothing industry or chain of stores. A methodical triangulation was used in the thesis. In a phenomenological research of experience seven pattern-makers were interviewed and in a quantitative research 26 pattern-makers filled in a structured questionnaire. The phenomenological analysis has 2 parts. In the first phase using the professional background of the pattern-makers, the historical development of the clothing industry for the last 40 years was described. In the second phase of the phenomenological analysis the description of the pattern-maker's job was created based on the organisational strategy of the companies nowadays. The analysis of quantitative research material was performed by one-dimensional study of variables, where the variations in the amounts of variables lead to proportional conclusions. As a result of the structured questionnaire, the core know-how of the pattern-maker was pointed out. In the thesis, the concept of situationality was used to describe the continuous change in the clothing industry. This explains the continuous requirement of pattern-makers' commitment to the time and location. The researcher has a background of a pattern-maker and she works as a specialist instructor. With the thesis the researcher updates her professional competence. The analysis of the pattern-maker's job can be used to update the content of pattern-makers' education in the vocational schools.
  • Yrjönsuuri, Varpu (2017)
    The purpose of this study is to describe and analyse elementary school students' material practices and materially mediated designing during a collaborative design process. Materiality in design was examined from three points of view: (1) materials as an aid for thinking, (2) materials as social mediators and (3) physical properties of materials. Previous studies concerning materiality have been focusing mostly in adults' design process. The data was collected as part of the research project Co4-Lab, in which elementary school students engage in a collaborative designing. Research data consisted of the video recordings of six design sessions where three groups of 5th grade students were building a material model of their innovation. Three levels of analysis were conducted, including an overview of the design session, identifying significant events and detailed analysis of dialogue and embodied actions. Deeper analysis become possible by combining all three levels. The results indicate that students used materials as mediators for ideation and collaboration. Materials became visible as an aid for thinking when students were testing ideas or structures. They also manipulated materials during a collaborative ideation. In social interaction materials were used to support verbalization and they affected division of work. There were also some problems related to materials. Constructing the simple models was slow, a lot of non-task related actions occurred and some students were left without anything to do. The role of the model as an aid for designing seemed to be vague. Modelling was used mostly to solve issues concerning the model itself not the object of design. Guidance and support is important to utilize full potential of materiality in elementary school students' design process.
  • Paaso, Jenniina (2019)
    The purpose of the study is to investigate the time of Villayhtymä’s 1959–1969 and Hyvilla’s 1970–1978 factories from the point of view of one textile, the travelling rug. The research is a continuation of my Bachelor’s thesis, and the meaning of it was to provide a broader review of the travelling rugs of that time, and thus to find out more exact facts about the travelling rugs’ material, manufacturing process, design, designers, uses, and connection to society – both domestic and foreign – through events and exports. In addition, the research aimed to define what kind the travelling rugs were. The research strategy was a historical case study. The material was selectively collected from Villayhtymä’s and Hyvilla’s head offices and Hyvinkää’s factory archives of Valvilla Wool Mill Museum’s archives of Hyvinkää City Museum. After the initial analysis, the material for a more detailed analysis was selected by themes. The answers to research questions were formed by using content analysis. According to the research results, Finnish wool was the most important material for travelling rugs due to its special features. However, there were difficulties in applying it due to low availability. The manufacturing process included many phases from sorting wool to finishing. Nature was one of the key subjects in the design of travelling rugs, and Aune Gummerus appeared to be one of the most significant designers of travelling rugs during Villayhtymä. Lapponica, Lake Blanket, and Moharella were the most important series of travelling rugs. Several different purposes of uses were suggested for travelling rugs, and they were presented at fairs and exhibitions. The designers were rewarded both domestically and abroad, and the travelling rugs made of Finnish wool were also ordered to many distant countries. The travelling rugs provide a connection to homes, decoration, design, society, and the surrounding world in the 1960s and 1970s. The Finnish design and quality were appreciated, and on the basis of the results, it seems that despite the difficulties of the wool industry, the travelling rug as a single textile has been a popular textile.
  • Honkaheimo, Martta (2018)
    The aim of this study was to find out about men’s motives in dressing themselves. The study aimed to answer two questions: : What kind of motives man has in dressing? What are the thing that effect into man’s clothing and style? The study uses the distinction theory of Pierre Bourdieu and applies it into describing men’s motives to dressing. There aren’t too many Pro gradu- studies about this specific theme, the previous similar study is done in 1993. The study material was obtained during one week by online survey (N=312). Most of the respondents were from southern Finland and aged between 28 and 38. The highest obtained schooling was upper secondary school among most of the respondents and most of the respondents worked as a specialist. Most of the respondents’ salary was between under 1500 euros and 2999 euros per month. Answers were handled and analysed with SPSS-program. Analysis methods were means, modes, correlations and principal factor analysis. The study’s reliability was determined with Cronbach’s α. The principal factor analysis produced four principal factors as motives for men’s dressing: aesthetic motive, conservative motive, socioeconomic motive and ecological motive. The respondents were interested in clothing and dressing, they knew their own style pretty well and preferred to shop cloths on their own. The four factors found went well together with Pierre Bourdieu’s distinction theory. Theory’s concepts could be applied in describing the motives for men to dress up themselves. It could be assumed that men who have been exposed to versatile culture were naturally interested in clothing and their appearance, as the men whose expose to versatile culture has been lesser were not that interested in clothing and their appearance. Also, the motives to dress seemed to be different depending on the social status the man has or wishes to have. In further studies it is important to put great emphasis on respondent’s childhoods social status– in what kind of social situation he has been growing up, what did he’s parents do etc. This survey didn’t gather any information about that, so more information is needed to make this study’s results more convincing.
  • Kumpulainen, Saara (2012)
    The purpose of the study was to research miniature textiles as to their history and development as art objects. The study of history focused on the definition of miniature textile, explanation of the phenomenon, and nature of the exhibitions. The data consisted of documents from the London exhibitions of 1974, 1976, 1978 and 1980, and from the Finnish exhibitions of 1984, 1986, 1989 and 2006. The documents were exhibition catalogs, press releases, and articles. The study of miniature textiles as art objects concentrated on the change of their technical and representational characteristics. The researcher documented 99 works of art shown at the Eighth International Baltic Mini Textile Triennial in Gdynia, in August 2010. They were compared with the miniature textiles as documented by the catalog of the First international exhibition of miniature textiles in London, in 1974. The only previous Finnish study on miniature textiles is a thesis written at the University of Art and Design, in 1985. The study follows the strategy of a historical case study. In the analysis, two different methodical approaches were used. Discourse analysis was applied to the study of written documents, while content analysis and typological analysis were used to study pictorial material. ATLAS.ti.6.1 was used as a software tool. The study showed that the definition of miniature textile was very similar in the London and Finnish data, although there were some differences of emphasis. A miniature textile is an object of textile art that can be made of any material with any technique and does not exceed 20 cm by 20 cm by 20 cm in size. The small amount of resources required to make a miniature textile has liberated the artist to experiment with something new, and that is seen to explain the strength of the phenomenon. Low transport costs have helped to arrange international exhibitions. The data revealed a conflict in the question if a miniature textile could be a scale model or not. There were altogether 221 participants in the London exhibitions and 87 in the Finnish exhibitions. In both series of exhibitions, there were persons who were both artists and jury members in the same year. According to the typological criteria developed in the study, there were 14 different types of miniature textile in the Gdynia exhibition. The scope of techniques and materials was larger than in the first London exhibition. The study showed that miniature textiles reflected trends in contemporary textile art.
  • Vuolas, Liisa (2017)
    The national core curriculum for basic education (FNBE 2014) brings changes in pedagogical outlines. Some of the key goals are to enhance pupil participation, diversify assessment and increase the use of technology. The teacher's task is to instruct and guide the pupils. The new curriculum also emphasizes transversal competences in the instruction of subjects. Furthermore there are many essential changes in crafts subject which causes stress among some craft teachers. The curriculum (FNBE 2014) defines crafts as a multimaterial subject in which the competence of managing holistic craft process (HCP) is a central principle. Crafts is defined by design, technology and craft expression. Furthermore, craft teaching requires co-teaching among craft teachers and co-operation with other subjects. This study aims to find out what kinds of reflection the new curriculum causes among craft teachers. The study was performed as a qualitative case study, in which the data was collected from the meetings of craft teachers in peer group mentoring sessions in January-March 2017. The group consisted of a mentor and eight participants who were female craft teachers in Uusimaa. The length of their teaching careers varied from two years to twenty-five years. Data was coded with ATLAS.TI-program. The analysis was data-based content analysis. According to this study, all the changes in the national core curriculum for basic education 2004 have not been fulfilled in craft teaching. Therefore the new curriculum (FNBE 2014) challenges teachers more than expected. Teachers' reflection includes a mixture of strong feelings and a large amount of questions and worries. Changes in the curriculum inspire teachers but not all teachers have the means to fulfill the requirements of the new curriculum. Learning problem-solving skills, co-operation with other teachers and student groups consisting of both girls and boys are considered the positive aspects of the new curriculum. Teachers also have more freedom to implement their teaching, and pupils can choose more optional lessons than before and be directed according to their interests. Teachers feel sorrow and anxiety because they are afraid that pupils' craft skills are weakening. The small number of craft lessons complicates the execution of the new curriculum. Some teachers experience the new technology in a very negative way as well as the experimental nature of the crafts. Instead, learning the traditional craft techniques and making "proper" artifacts is still considered important. Teachers feel positive about the increased co-operation between craft teachers but have trouble starting and finding time for it. Teachers' well-being is challenged with increased challenges. Craft teaching in accordance to the new curriculum requires resources to teaching groups sizes and to the planning co-teaching. Craft teachers need further education with design teaching, integration of technology, documentation and assessment. Teachers feel sorrow and anxiety when because they are afraid that of the weakening of pupils' craft skills are weakening. The small amount number of craft lessons is kept as a problem complicates the fulfillment execution of the new curriculum. A part Some of the teachers experience the new technology in a (very) negative way and as well as the experimental role nature of the crafts. Instead, learning the traditional craft techniques and making "proper" artifacts is experienced still considered important. Teachers experience feel positive about the increased co-operation between craft teachers good but it feels tough to start co-operation but have trouble starting and finding time for it. Teachers' well-being is challenged with increased challenges. Craft teaching in accordance to the new curriculum requires resources with to teaching groups (sizes) and to the planning of co-teaching planning. Craft teachers need further education with design teaching, integration of technology, documentation and assessment.
  • Mäkelä, Emma (2014)
    The study was conducted in 2013 and consists of diaries and interviews. A total of nine informants kept a diary for 12 months, in which they wrote all clothing and footwear purchases, prices, places of the purchase and the reasons of the purchase. Afterwards informants were interviewed by a stimulated recall method with help of diaries. The data of this study consists of informants' diaries and one-to-one interviews. Informants' purchases are presented in a tabular form by numbers of purchased pieces, separating impulse, demand-driven and discount purchases. The purpose of the diaries in this study was to find out what was purchased during one year, why and how much informants used money to buy clothing, and finally compare the results with similar studies of Statistics Finland. The most interesting finding was the average price of clothing, which varied between informants quite a lot. Informants made more impulse than demand-driven purchases, but most of the purchases were made on discount. Informants left un-recognized, whether the reason of a purchase was impulse or demand-driven if the product was on discount. However, with the notes of the diaries one can conclude that the discount purchases were often impulse purchases, which increases the percentage of impulse buying much larger. The aim of the interviews was to find out what is the criteria for successful purchase and how would a piece of clothing domesticate well. A transaction is an interesting subject of research, because buying combines both need and feeling. Purchase gives a short-term positive emotional feeling, which doesn't effect on the domestication of clothing. Product affection varies with personalities. Some appreciate the appearance of clothing and it is the most important criteria of buying. Others appreciate the quality or comfort. In this study, ease, versatility and quality were the most important factors increasing product affection.
  • Hanni, Mari (2019)
    Tiivistelmä - Referat – Abstract Objectives. The aim of this study is to analyze and interpret team-teachers' perceptions of co-teaching within a craft education project, in co-operation with Helsinki University´s Co4Lab-research. Co-teaching is commonly understood as a teaching method, where two or more teachers equally share the responsibility of planning, implementation and evaluation of teaching. There are many methods of co-teaching and it is said that team-teaching is the most intensive and well-developed method. The study explains how team-teaching is co-planned and arranged and how it has developed during the project. The main part of the study is give a voice to teachers who are doing co-teaching together. As a result, the study also gives examples of co-teaching methods used in a craft education project. Methods. A total of 4 teachers from one metropolitan area elementary school took part in this study. Three of the participating teachers were class teaches and one was a craft teacher. The teachers were interviewed in the summer of 2017, using a semi-structured theme interview and the research material was analyzed using qualitative content analysis. There was also limited documentation from the Co4Lab-research, collected earlier by other researchers. Results and Conclusions. The study highlighted that team-teaching is a very functional method of teaching in a craft project. Team-teaching has slowly develop good choice by the years teachers has used it as a teaching method. Co-planning and teamwork has got easier year by year, and teamwork has helped the leading of this kind of an educational project. The key elements of successful team-teaching were well-arranged co-planning, conversations with colleagues and the feeling of shared responsibility of teaching and evaluation. Collegial support was an essential part of team-teaching. Whenever teachers felt that they did not know enough about the technical craft details of the project, they could rely on their team-member and learn from each other. Some teachers had other strengths; such as giving more support in education, structured teaching and schedules. It doesn´t take so much time to co-teach: small conversations with a team partner can lead to successful team-teaching.